A beauty gesture that's not so insignificant.
Applying nail polish has become an essential ritual: a touch of color, sophistication, sometimes even a tool for boosting self-confidence. Yet, behind the elegant bottles lies a much less glamorous reality: formulas loaded with solvents, plasticizers, and resins that raise concerns about health and the environment.
Classic nail polishes: the chemical cocktail of the "Big 5"
Most conventional nail polishes still contain petrochemical-derived substances. The most problematic are known as the "Big 5" :
- Formaldehyde : a hardener known to be carcinogenic and irritating.
- Toluene : a neurotoxic solvent that can cause headaches and dizziness.
- Phthalates (DBP) : endocrine disruptors suspected of impacting fertility.
- Synthetic camphor : allergenic, can weaken the nervous system in high doses.
- Xylene : skin and respiratory irritant.
Even though many brands now advertise "3-free" or "5-free" formulas, this does not guarantee the absence of other problematic substances.
The concrete health risks
- Nail weakening : solvents that dry out keratin → brittle, splitting nails.
- Skin reactions : contact allergies, irritation around the cuticles.
- Toxic inhalation : solvent vapors inhaled during application.
- Endocrine disruption : repeated exposure to certain plasticizers or resins.
Semi-permanent makeup: practical but requires monitoring
Semi-permanent nail polish is appealing because of its long-lasting effect (up to 3 weeks) and impeccable shine. However, it presents several specific problems:
UV/LED Exposure
- The lamps used to polymerize the varnish emit UV radiation.
- Repeated over several years, these exposures present premature aging of the skin on the hands and increase the risk of skin lesions.
Heavier formulas
- Semi-permanent nail polishes contain more resins, methacrylates and powerful solvents .
- Result: increased risk of allergies, irritations and skin sensitizations.
Deposit aggressively
- Soaking in acetone or filing intensifies and weakens the natural nail.
- Porous, soft nails that split: this is a common observation after several successive applications.
The case of photoinitiators (TPO & derivatives)
To harden under UV/LED lamps, semi-permanent polishes use photoinitiators . Among them, TPO (Diphenyl (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide) is particularly controversial.
- Its role: to trigger polymerization.
- The problem: it is classified as toxic to reproduction and highly allergenic .
- As a result, several photoinitiators of this type are now restricted by European regulations .
This explains the increase in cases of severe allergic dermatitis reported with certain low-cost semi-permanent products.
UV gel: even more restrictive
Gel false nails also involve acrylic resins + UV polymerization .
- Risks: contact allergies, weakened nails, repeated exposure to UV rays.
- For occasional use only and with controlled application.
Clean and responsible alternatives
Fortunately, the industry is evolving and now offers much more eco-friendly options, without sacrificing durability or shine.
- Kure Bazaar : a pioneer in bio-based nail polish, with up to 90% naturally derived ingredients. Elegant colors and respectful formulations.
- Manucurist (Green & Green Flash) : classic clean nail polish + the first "clean" semi-permanent polish formulated without controversial TPO or methacrylates. Gentle application, LED lamp, made in France.
- Nailberry – L’Oxygène : “12-free”, vegan range that lets the nail breathe.
- Zao : bio-sourced formulas, refillable and eco-responsible packaging.
Natural tips for healthy nails
- Take breaks between nail polish applications to allow the nail to breathe.
- Nourish your cuticles with vegetable oils (castor, jojoba, sweet almond).
- Support your nails from within: favour a diet rich in zinc, silicon, protein and omega-3 → essential for strong keratin.
- Before a semi-permanent application: apply sunscreen to your hands to limit the impact of UV rays.
Key points to remember
- Conventional nail polishes often contain solvents and endocrine disruptors (Big 5).
- Semi-permanent and gel add other risks: UV exposure, aggressive deposit, photoinitiators such as TPO .
- Existing clean alternatives are effective and glamorous, with Kure Bazaar, Manucurist or Nailberry leading the way.
- The greatest luxury remains healthy nails , supported by a reverse beauty routine.
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